Chamonix climboholic vacations

Two weeks in alpine climbings mekka. Two weeks with perfect weather, and a long to-do list gave us a the max-climbing-meter/vacation ever and a skyhigh calorie-consumption. Tromsø didn’t gave us an optimal preparation but motivation was high and the day after leaving Tromsø we were heading towards Envers des Aguilles. LRG_DSC06138

They really know how to make nice hiking trails in Chamonix…

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Nice camping spot we thought… the day after the Refuge des Envers opened their friendly doors. This must be the refuge with the nicest hosts and best food!

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Climbing Le Piege at Envers, really nice climbing close to the hut (seen in the background), and a perfect starter. The climbing are first class the whole way!

LRG_DSC06155LRG_DSC06149In little Yosemite, we found perfect splitters on Guy-Anne. It was steep and gave us a hint of what to come… This was really awesome climbing on Nantillons, and none of the slab nonsense found on more modern routes.

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Nantillons and Auguille du Requin in the background

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Checking the topo… Next day we went for Aguille de Roc and Subtilite Dulferiennes and 16 pitches of climbing… We thought the grade would be well within our abilities and that we would be able to climb fast and efficient since we now were well acclimatized. Aguille de Roc is just an amazing piece of mountain and it is so much steeper than you would think… It started off nice enough but soon switched to endless, vertical, immaculate dihedrals that really put us to the test. All belays were hanging and on your own gear, no bolts in sight, route finding and extremely exposed position made this one a true adventure.

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Endless dihedrals!!LRG_DSC06195LRG_DSC06204

Our calves needed a break so we headed back to Chamonix and went to Italy and Torino.

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Acclimatizing on Aguille d’Entreves, and on the approach we saw our next objective, Dent du Geant in the background.P1100223

Early start and alpine glow in Mont Blanc.

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The slabs of the normal route is great climbing with a French touch!P1100226

Looking over Rochefort ridge and Grande Jorasses in the background

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Rappelling of with Rochefort in the background. Two days at Torino and we headed back down to Chamonix the same day as we climbed Dent du Geant. We had unfinished business at Envers that we wanted to do… The next day we went back in (restday) and the other morning we started on Grepon Mer de Glace. Easy scrambling but 850 m of climbing makes a long day.

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Tiny climber in a sea of granite…LRG_DSC06239

Upper third of the wall steepend and gave us beautiful climbing!fullsizeoutput_1042

Summit of Aguille de Roc to the left, closing up on the summit of Grepon.

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Summit!! P1100240

Just below the summit, with some rappelling and a lot of walking left. We headed down the backside and went down to Chamonix.LRG_DSC06249

Just 2000 vertical meters left before reaching burgers and cold beer!

Tore stayed for a week of guiding on Mont Blanc, and they got to the summit! Chamonix is a special place in so many ways, and we will be back very soon…

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Ersfjordtraversen

Already a couple of weeks ago (time flies), two guests joined us on the adventure that is Ersfjordtraversen. The traverse climbs along the entire Ersfjord on Kvaløya, starting in the west by the sea and follows narrow ridges, pinnacles and summits along the fjord to the highest mountain on the island, Blåmann. It is one of the longest ridgeclimbs in Norway, covering 16 km and 2800 m of vertical climbing. Although Kilian Jornet did it in 4:49 most people uses 2 days to complete it.

We started in the fog at Rekvik, and didn’t see a thing until we reached the first summit Skamtind, once there we were rewarded with a fantastic view: only the highest summits were visible above the clouds, sticking up like small islands. The sea, the fjord, and the rest of the world was just one fluffy white mass.

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Almost the whole traverse seen from Skamtind, with Storstolpan to the left and Hollenderen to the right.
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Skamtind, and the mountains on the other side of Ersfjord. The famous Storsteinnes, Skittentind and Middagstind

We rappelled down Skamtind and started the narrow ridge towards Storstolpan, dooming in the background. The terrain is then quite complex and exposed and we used the rope for quite a way.

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Coming down from the first summit… and we see the backside of Skamtind
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The skies clear and we finally see the fjord
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One of the smaller summits
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Sky, sun, fjord and mountains… We were so lucky with the weather!
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Hollenderen in the background, and faaaar away Tromsø and Tromsdalstind!
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The Ersfjordtraverse… it is a giant!!! up and down and up and down…
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The day is coming to an end…
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We spent the night at the base of Storstolpan, on the little height just in front of us.
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Midnightsun….
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Goodnight! Sun was shining all night, and we slept at the most beautiful hotel in the world!
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Getting started in the morning….
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Finally Storstolpan, Hollenderen clearly seen in the background
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Getting ready to start the climbing of day 2
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Belaying the second pitch on Storstolpan
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The view from Storstolpan, Skamtind all the way back there!
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The view of the rest of the traverse, Blåmann in the middle.

We had two fantastic days in the mountains, climbing, rappelling and scrambling, as well as a truly unique dinner+bivvy under the midnight sun. The guests pushed their limits and learned new skills, and we all had a blast. The rest of the traverse waits for a later venue, the ultimate adventure to complete!

Thank you Katrine and Lasse for these two days, it was a summer memory never to forget!

Bouldering in Signaldalen

*Update*

Publishing new boulders below 🙂

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Snow is gone and out comes the rocks….

We have found quite a few boulders that we are cleaning just a walking distance from our house. The quality is fine, and there is both easy and hard (and high) problems. We will post updates here with photos, and please come by if you want any tips!

We don’t claim any “first ascents” as we know the old boys have been scrambling around most of it, back in the days.

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Second bridge over Signaldalselva to Fosseveien, green star marks Høgsteinen and purple Elvesteinen. Parking between the two or just up the hill.

Sitstart in the overhang on crimps, 5 or easy 6a: Linies hjørne. Very nice!
On the right sitstart on good holds, grade 5 and called it Balance. Sitstart on the left arete on good holds: Fjottetid grade 6a. These two and Linies hjørne are all very nice and lies on the second boulder by Elvesteinen
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Tore climbs a very nice 6a on Elvesteina, Luft i magen, sitstart. Just left of this problem there is an easy sitstart Kristall.
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Minijam, easy problem on a small boulder next to Elvesteina.
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Beastmaker, 6a+ sitstart on Elvesteina, Minijam is just to the right.
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Elvesteina 2, a beautiful boulder, with so far one very nice problem, Findus 6a+ sitstart on the jug under the dihedral.
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Findus
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Working on a problem on Elvesteina
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Also working on Elvesteina…. Løiten wonders why we are so frustrated… In the background you can see both Findus and Beastmaker.
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Jørgen climbs a nice problem up to the middle jug. Standing 6a, sit 6a+, on Høgsteinen.
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Solveig tries a project on Elvesteinene, standing one move wonder…. Elvesteinen also holds a Luft i magen, 6a on the other corner…. And many other projects and fun traverses.
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“Fosse hjørnet”, sitstart by the arete, on the short side of the slab
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“The slab” many easy variants, on the other side of Fossehjørnet.
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“Høgsteinen” main rocks close to the road. The dihedral is graded as 4 although it is quite high, the overhanging fistcrack on the left is 5. On the right of the dihedral there is a sitstart 6a+ and standing start 6a, finishing at the big jug half way up.
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“Solsidan” on the backside of “Høgsteinen”. Follows the edge in the middle of the wall and tops out straight up 6a, supernice problem! NB! The loose rock on the left at the start is not part of the problem.
 

 

Ice climbing in Signaldalen

26.3.17

Classic alpine start. Late breakfast, two extra jugs of coffee, got out of the house just after noon… Hey let’s try something new..??!

So we went on an adventure…

Up in one of the gullies we found this 40 m tall pillar, a total of 3 pitches, last one of overhanging ice. Never climbed so steep ice before…: Fun!!!

The approach involved a new way of canyoning, in wintertime… Alone worth a visit!