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Ersfjordtraversen

Already a couple of weeks ago (time flies), two guests joined us on the adventure that is Ersfjordtraversen. The traverse climbs along the entire Ersfjord on Kvaløya, starting in the west by the sea and follows narrow ridges, pinnacles and summits along the fjord to the highest mountain on the island, Blåmann. It is one of the longest ridgeclimbs in Norway, covering 16 km and 2800 m of vertical climbing. Although Kilian Jornet did it in 4:49 most people uses 2 days to complete it.

We started in the fog at Rekvik, and didn’t see a thing until we reached the first summit Skamtind, once there we were rewarded with a fantastic view: only the highest summits were visible above the clouds, sticking up like small islands. The sea, the fjord, and the rest of the world was just one fluffy white mass.

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Almost the whole traverse seen from Skamtind, with Storstolpan to the left and Hollenderen to the right.
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Skamtind, and the mountains on the other side of Ersfjord. The famous Storsteinnes, Skittentind and Middagstind

We rappelled down Skamtind and started the narrow ridge towards Storstolpan, dooming in the background. The terrain is then quite complex and exposed and we used the rope for quite a way.

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Coming down from the first summit… and we see the backside of Skamtind
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The skies clear and we finally see the fjord
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One of the smaller summits
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Sky, sun, fjord and mountains… We were so lucky with the weather!
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Hollenderen in the background, and faaaar away Tromsø and Tromsdalstind!
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The Ersfjordtraverse… it is a giant!!! up and down and up and down…
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The day is coming to an end…
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We spent the night at the base of Storstolpan, on the little height just in front of us.
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Midnightsun….
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Goodnight! Sun was shining all night, and we slept at the most beautiful hotel in the world!
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Getting started in the morning….
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Finally Storstolpan, Hollenderen clearly seen in the background
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Getting ready to start the climbing of day 2
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Belaying the second pitch on Storstolpan
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The view from Storstolpan, Skamtind all the way back there!
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The view of the rest of the traverse, Blåmann in the middle.

We had two fantastic days in the mountains, climbing, rappelling and scrambling, as well as a truly unique dinner+bivvy under the midnight sun. The guests pushed their limits and learned new skills, and we all had a blast. The rest of the traverse waits for a later venue, the ultimate adventure to complete!

Thank you Katrine and Lasse for these two days, it was a summer memory never to forget!

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Piggtind

Yesterday we finally went to visit Piggtind.

Piggtind is a beautiful and iconic mountain located in the south of Lyngen, and separates the boarders of Storfjord, Balsfjord and Tromsø kommune. It is 1505 meters above sea level and we startet the trip on about 120 meters above sea level at the east side, and parked by Fjellås.

Peter Wessel Zapffe, a well known Norwegian mountaineer has written about the mountain in his book “Barske Glæder” under the chapter “fire korstog til Piggtind”.

It is a fantastic trip in beautiful surroundings, with an iconic peak, were you need to use rope and climbing techniques to summit.

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The morning fog disapears and Piggtind is visible straight ahead 
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The top
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Scrambling before the final climbing to the top.
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Great view from the top!

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Bouldering in Signaldalen

*Update*

Publishing new boulders below 🙂

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Snow is gone and out comes the rocks….

We have found quite a few boulders that we are cleaning just a walking distance from our house. The quality is fine, and there is both easy and hard (and high) problems. We will post updates here with photos, and please come by if you want any tips!

We don’t claim any “first ascents” as we know the old boys have been scrambling around most of it, back in the days.

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Second bridge over Signaldalselva to Fosseveien, green star marks Høgsteinen and purple Elvesteinen. Parking between the two or just up the hill.

Sitstart in the overhang on crimps, 5 or easy 6a: Linies hjørne. Very nice!
On the right sitstart on good holds, grade 5 and called it Balance. Sitstart on the left arete on good holds: Fjottetid grade 6a. These two and Linies hjørne are all very nice and lies on the second boulder by Elvesteinen
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Tore climbs a very nice 6a on Elvesteina, Luft i magen, sitstart. Just left of this problem there is an easy sitstart Kristall.
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Minijam, easy problem on a small boulder next to Elvesteina.
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Beastmaker, 6a+ sitstart on Elvesteina, Minijam is just to the right.
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Elvesteina 2, a beautiful boulder, with so far one very nice problem, Findus 6a+ sitstart on the jug under the dihedral.
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Findus
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Working on a problem on Elvesteina
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Also working on Elvesteina…. Løiten wonders why we are so frustrated… In the background you can see both Findus and Beastmaker.
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Jørgen climbs a nice problem up to the middle jug. Standing 6a, sit 6a+, on Høgsteinen.
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Solveig tries a project on Elvesteinene, standing one move wonder…. Elvesteinen also holds a Luft i magen, 6a on the other corner…. And many other projects and fun traverses.
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“Fosse hjørnet”, sitstart by the arete, on the short side of the slab
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“The slab” many easy variants, on the other side of Fossehjørnet.
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“Høgsteinen” main rocks close to the road. The dihedral is graded as 4 although it is quite high, the overhanging fistcrack on the left is 5. On the right of the dihedral there is a sitstart 6a+ and standing start 6a, finishing at the big jug half way up.
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“Solsidan” on the backside of “Høgsteinen”. Follows the edge in the middle of the wall and tops out straight up 6a, supernice problem! NB! The loose rock on the left at the start is not part of the problem.
 

 

Arctic Haute Route with Norgesguidene

Last three days I have been guiding for Norgesguidene the old Hurtigruta “Nordstjernen” and the “Arctic Haute Route”

It has a nice trip from Bodø to Tromsø, with good snow, and great people!

Here are some pictures from the last days:

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From Blåtinden in Lofoten – Svolvær

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Amazing view from Blåtinden
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One of the mountains on the island “Rolla”
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The last day on Gråtinden on Kvaløya.

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Perfect weekend in #Lyngen

Great people, a nice place to sleep and eat at, soft snow, sunshine and beautiful mountains… Normally you only need a couple of this ingredients for a good day in #Lyngen, but this weekend we had it all!

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Early start, and soon up in the sun. Everything is well documented 🙂 Foto: Hans Henrik Bruusgaard
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Soft snow, and nice weather!

 

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The guide and his dog almost always get first tracks… Foto: Hans Henrik Bruusgaard

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Thank you for a great weekend!

Ice climbing in Signaldalen

26.3.17

Classic alpine start. Late breakfast, two extra jugs of coffee, got out of the house just after noon… Hey let’s try something new..??!

So we went on an adventure…

Up in one of the gullies we found this 40 m tall pillar, a total of 3 pitches, last one of overhanging ice. Never climbed so steep ice before…: Fun!!!

The approach involved a new way of canyoning, in wintertime… Alone worth a visit!